Amalfi Coast tour | My Itinerary with local tips
Poetry is not always created by an object
however fluid and natural
of rhyme and verses in equilibrium.
When words are not enough,
images create poetry
and when words and images are not enough,
there persist mute and deafening sensations
that become eternal and re-emerge in our memory,
on a warm mid-September afternoon.
View of the Amalfi Coast from Positano
For those of you, who like me, are lucky enough to be born and living in one of the most beautiful places in the world, a lunch break can turn into a feast in paradise and improvising on a holiday afternoon is not that complicated.
With a backpack and in delightful company, I share an itinerary of approximately six hours of how to discover the first stretch of the Amalfi Coast from Sorrento, driving on a Vespa, I don’t know how many times and without limits on how many more there are going to be, one of the most beautiful roads in the world. Where you can see Mother Nature at her excellence, you will not be disappointed.
Month: September 2019
Itinerary and stops: Sorrento, Positano, Praiano, Amalfi
Duration: 6 hours
Veihcle: Scooter, Vespa
Don’t forget: camera and k-way
Read the entire itinerary and follow the map from Sorrento to Amalfi, passing trough Positano, Praiano, Furore and Conca dei Marini.
Amalfi Coast tour, my ideal itinerary
Everything starts from a crossroad, a bit like in life, the moments of infinite beauty.
It is the beginning of state highway 163, and it is also the last days of summer. You realise this from the lightness of the colours and from the fluidity of the road that leaves behind the majesty of the Sorrento Peninsula and falls into the harmony of the Amalfi Coast, with light touches, like the baskets of grandmothers winched down from the balconies (Italian scene). In the tranquility of lunchtime, the road is half-empty and with the gear going from second to third and vice versa, we pass the first bit of road between the green ridges and spurs of rock overlooking the sea.
The temptation to stop every second to immortalise the landscape is really strong, every corner and every way you look, is in itself a reason to stop.
From the first to the last bend, the Amalfi coast is a terrace suspended between the sky and the sea, which leans on a ridgeline sometimes sharp and angular, but at the same time so sweet to wrap you in a kamasutric position and daze the senses. Thus, we surrender to the seduction of the eyes, and after the straight stretch that follows the path downhill to the beach of Tordigliano, we stop at one of the most fascinating viewpoints to admire the stretch of the coast we have just travelled, a spell of celestial nuances, starting from the sea to reach the eyes.
View of the Amalfi Coast from Tordigliano view point
After a few turns further, we feast our eyes on the brightest colours of our land whilst we are bewitched in admiration of Positano nestled on the hill looking out the rocky slopes of the Amalfi coast.
View of Positano and Praiano
Benvenuti a Positano!
After passing the Town Hall, we turn right into Via Pasitea, which with its tight bends, wraps itself between colourful houses and luxury hotels.
There are typical restaurants and craft shops until the end, where the pedestrian road leading to the beach begins. We park the Vespa at Parking Mandara and we proceed on foot for a short walk among the famous Positano fashion clothing stores, winding between intrigued visitors and young tourists dressed in handmade linen and cotton recalling the distinctive tones and textures of the Coast. Walking under the famous pergola that leads to the Church of Santa Maria Assunta and its majolica dome, one of the symbols of Positano, we go down the last few steps and arrive at the Spiaggia Grande.
The beach is a postcard on limestone rock, with coloured houses that descend to the sea and rows of lively striped sun umbrellas, the coming and going of visitors and gozzi boats parading on the shimmering crystal clear sea.
However, we do not let ourselves be overwhelmed by the tourist wave and after a few minutes, we retrace our journey backwards and riding our Vespa, we leave for Praiano, but not before surrendering to the temptation to take some more pictures from another angle.
View of Positano from via Cristoforo Colombo
Fruit stand in Positano
Positano is always beautiful from any viewpoint and as we move away, we become more and more convinced of this truth. Lost and immersed in the beauty of the landscape we forget about time but not our stomachs as we start to feel hungry!
So we head to one of our favorite corners, the Marina di Praia.
Benvenuti a Praiano!
Praiano welcomes us with its genuineness and simplistic characteristics that make it authentic and sublime at the same time. The statue near the Hotel Villa Angelina, “Conversation between women” of the Cuban artist Etienne, it is a masterful union between art and nature.
The soft clean shapes of the statues light up on the colours of the background, be it the blue of the sea or the purple hues of sunset. They co-exist and enhance the sight.
We pass the small gallery that houses the inhabited centre of Praiano and here is another church of admirable beauty, whose dome lights up with coloured majolica, the Parish of San Gennaro.
Roughly ten minutes later we find ourselves at the fjord of Marina di Praia, halfway between Praiano and the municipality of Furore.
Marina di Praia, between Praiano and Furore.
The Marina di Praia is one of those refuges of the mind, for the lights and the peace of its sea. With its typical restaurants and gozzi pulled ashore on the beach, the Marina extends behind the cliff along Via Praia, a characteristic path carved into the rock, adorned with local ceramics and majolica, which leads to one of my favorite restaurants on the Amalfi Coast, il Pirata.
The welcoming smile of the owners is the prelude to a lovely experience, in harmony with the beauty of the location and the quality of the food.
Excellent value for money.
We order a dish of mixed pasta with yellow tomatoes, fior di latte and lemon, also spaghetti alla Nerano to share.
Despite my passionate love for the famous pasta zucchini alla Nerano remembering the sublime taste of flavours I still cannot choose between the two, both cooked to perfection both equally delicious.
Filomena enjoying a delicious “linguine alla Nerano” at Il Pirata restaurant.
We leave a little room for the dessert in anticipation of the next stop, Amalfi, where, since 1830, the Pansa family have created a real sweet heaven filled with delicious and unforgettable tastes created with passion. With this thought, we leave the Marina di Praia in the direction of the Ancient Maritime Republic of Amalfi.
Bevenuti ad Amalfi!
We first surpass the famous Fiord di Furore and Conca dei Marini and after less than fifteen minutes, past the last tunnel, we find ourselves in Piazza Flavio Gioia and on the Amalfi promenade, where we park the Vespa. A cosmopolitan centre open to the Mediterranean and an autonomous republic since the early nineteenth century for about two centuries, Amalfi has a fascinating history and a dominant maritime culture that has written pages of history. To make us feel better about eternal life after death it refreshes our memory of our luck to be born in this wonderful place, Amalfi welcomes us with the inscription and quotation from the poet Renato Fucini “Judgment day, for the Amalfi people who will go to heaven, will be a day like any other day”. For they already live in Paradise.
Amalfi, Amalfi Coast.
From Piazza Flavio Gioia we head into the historic centre, and walk through its lively and colourful alleys and we find ourselves in Piazza Duomo, where the Cathedral of Sant’Andrea arises. We climb the 62 steps that lead to the Cathedral and admire the beauty of the external façade and the Cloister of Paradise. We then enjoy the well-deserved break at the not to be missed Pansa pastry, from ricotta and chocolate to the celebrated Santarosa puff pastry, from orange peel to lemon delight, there really is something for everyone.
Arrivederci Amalfi Coast!
Content we set off to retrieve the Vespa and head back to Sorrento.
The sun begins to withdraw behind the coast and a light breeze reminds us that it is the last days of summer. Once past the first stretch of the Costiera, immediately after Conca dei Marini, the last sun reappears above the Lattari Mountains and the cliff ridges are painted red and orange. Happy and grateful, we return home exactly like this: happy and grateful that we have experienced and explored the Amafi Coast trip.
I hope expressing to you how to enjoy the Amalfi Coast in a 1 day itinerary. It is possible to take in some of the most beautiful and breathtaking landscapes and views and tasting the gorgeous mouth-watering food and sweets that the Amalfitana Coast offers.